The Rapper and I have been looking for a 2-ish bedroom apartment in Montreal for under $800 a month, that takes dogs. I think apartment hunting is a fairly stressful enterprise in most cities, and every city has its own apartment language, standards and secret systems you need to learn fairly quickly if you are to score the pad of your dreams. The following are my observations of how Montreal works for people such as The Rapper and myself.

The basic layout:

A “4 1/2” apartment:
4 rooms of some kind, and a bathroom. Probably one of the rooms is a kitchen, and another is a livingroom. “Aha! 4-2=2, so this must be a 2-bedroom apartment!” you think. Not so fast. What you could be dealing with here is a 1 bedroom with a double living room, meaning, someone drew a line across the middle of the room to make it look like there was once a wall there. Or there might be a “dining area” or some other nebulous alcove that swells out of a wide spot in the hallway— like a closet with a window or an outdoor shed, off to the left of the fire escape.
A “5 1/2” apartment:
Same one bedroom as above, only now you have two questionable areas. One is a laundry room slash child’s bedroom. The other is on a funny angle, the water heater and hydro box take up 50% of the available floor space, and the ceiling caps out at 5 feet.

Price range:

$600-$850:
The apartment is in a post-industrial armpit. Neighbors include the Home Depot, train tracks to the North and South, a building fondly remembered as “The Old Tire Factory,” and several wandering young men who need to ask you something, they just can’t remember what it is. There’s no grocery store nearby, but you can purchase concrete where the dép should be. You will tell your friends “its kind of in between” two other well known neighborhoods that have actual names. Signs of gentrification are nonetheless visible, and you can buy an apartment of the same size in this neighborhood for $250,000 or so. You have in common with your neighbors a jubilant disdain for the higher rental prices in other cities, especially Toronto, because that’s what people do here.
$851-$1400:
The apartment is in a cute neighborhood full of hipsters and the businesses that cater to them. This is Montreal, so that means fantastic coffee, books, bagels, chocolate, $40 hand-printed t-shirts and the constant company of writers, filmmakers, graduate students and degenerate drifters such as yourself. There might be a large farmer’s market within lackadaisical cycling distance, and you are certainly at the epi-center of a triangle of natural and health and food supplement stores. Signs of gentrification are nonetheless visible, and you can buy an apartment of the same size in this neighborhood for $250,000 or so. You have in common with your neighbors a jubilant disdain for the higher rental prices in other cities, especially Toronto, because that’s what people do here.
$1401-$3600:
The apartment is in a once-cute neighborhood that was popular and affordable 5-50 years ago. Now the only people there are the last people to move in, just as everyone who made it cute and popular scattered North, East and West. The floors and moldings are polished hardwood, your appliances match, the tile in your bathroom is a particular shade of sage/slate/fire-engine-red that reminds you each morning that you have made it. The neighborhood is adjacent to something the listing describes as “trendy” and you have a concierge, a basement pool you never use, parking, and 24-hour surveillance. Signs of gentrification are nonetheless visible, and you can buy an apartment of the same size in this neighborhood for $250,000 or so. You have in common with your neighbors a jubilant disdain for the higher rental prices in other cities, especially Toronto, because that’s what people do here.
$3601+:
The apartment is a penthouse in the Old Port. You are an expat diamond baron who only visits on weekends to maintain your Canadian residency. The rampant touristification of the neighborhood below troubles you not because you always approach your pad by helicopter. Rent? Why bother when you could own the whole block if you wanted to? It’s so lonely not having anyone to have anything in common with. So you rag on Toronto for sport.

Glossary of Listings Terms:

The Rapper is learning French— and he’s doing very well, although its still not fast enough to make our Pizza Lady happy. Quebecois listings shorthand is still a little alien to him. So this list is as much for him as it is for you, dear reader.

Original French Translated What it Really Means
avec foyer with foyer After you climb two flights of exterior stairs in freezing rain, you will enter the apartment to find a small area with ceramic tiles in front of the door where you can leave your wet things. With no walls, windows or doors, this area will nonetheless count as a room and increase your rent by $50 a month.
2 ch fermées 2 closed bedrooms You still might not have a door
2càc 2 closed bedrooms as long as you don’t mind sleeping in a cupboard under the stairs
pl bois franc Hardwood Floors Wooden floors of some description, which you imagine as long slats of hardwood, but which will be tiny parquet squares, their varnish peeling with age.
eau ch hot water Hot water is included in your rent because you share it with five other apartments. Your showers will therefore be cold, heating will still be via baseboard heaters, and hydro bill through the winter months, somewhere around $250 instead of $268.
4 emplacements fantastiques Faut voir! 4 fantastic places must see! I am a slum lord!
Bloc très bien entretenu Block maintained very well Wish I could say as much for the building itself
Idéal étudiants Ideal for students aka, the only people who would ever consider living here
Ensoleillés Sunny I can’t think of anything bad to say about sunny. We’re in the clear on this one.
bain tourbillon Whirpool bath either it was installed in 1970, or you have to stir it yourself with a wooden spoon (not provided), or at these prices, there must be something else terribly wrong with the rest of the apartment
stat. parking a reason to celebrate come February, if its not on the street
Très grand living room Really big salon. Finally, you can have over all your argumentative artist friends at once.
électricté pas très cher situé entre les métros Atwater et Guy-Concordia cheap electricty located between Atwater and Guy-Concordia metro bring your wire cutters and a big battery and lets get this party started
Entre-sol Half basement What’s that funny dank smell?

Niveau rez-de-jardin Half basement Why’d I pay so much to live with this funny dank smell?
Calme Quiet If you sneeze in your apartment I’m filing a noise disturbance.
PAS D’ANIMAUX!!!! no pets I’m of the belief that animals are for eating, wearing and sitting on. The only way they belong in the house is if they are tanned or vacuum packed.
PAS DE CHIENS!!! No dogs As a child, I was traumatized by a roving gang of hairless chihuahuas. Please don’t remind me.
Chats acceptés Cats OK I have twelve of them myself, as well as a serious psychological disorder through which I will provide you with many memorable stories to share with your friends
Près Westmount Westmount Adjacent This is like seeing someone inportant at a cocktail party and trying to casually edge your way closer and closer to him so that in all the photos, it looks like you really know each other.
Près TMR TMR Adjacent The apartment is not in TMR, but strangely, the only way in or out of your neighborhood is through its commuter rail station.
Entre métro Sherbrooke, Frontenac, Papineau Between Sherbrooke, Frontenac and Papineau metros you are more than a 30 minute walk from your choice of 3 metro stations
Près Métro Gay Typo, meaning Guy Metro Everyone knows Beaudry metro is way gayer
100% rénové avec cachet Completely renovated, with cachet
  1. Completely renovated in 1980
  2. Renovated just now, so I could jack up the rent above the leagal increase
mur briques exposed Brick walls This was such a gen-x thing to get excited about ten years ago
céramique cuisine/sdb cermic tile in the kitchen and bathroom any listing that doesn’t have this is sure to have unmentionable orange linoleum instead.
Buanderie laundry in the building One washer and dryer in the basement for 12 apartments, most of them held by families of four
ent lav/séc Washer/Dryer connections One of the great things about montreal apartments is that because they most often come without appliances, and you pay your own heating/electricity, a majority have a washer-dryer hookup, so you can do your laundry IN YOUR APARTMENT, which is like a little slice of heaven for some of us.
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5 Responses to Jill's guide to finding a Montreal apartment

  1. chrisa says:

    wow! prices have gone up! i didn’t even know you could pay $3600 for rent in montreal. the most i ever paid for an apartment in montreal was $400 per month, and that was before i figured out the system. by the time i left, i was living with shelley, and we lived on the ghetto side of the nice neighbourhood, and paid about $310 per month, including heat and phone. those were the good old days

    so…the rent fluctuates but the price to buy stays the same across neighbourhoods?

  2. Jill says:

    Our place now is only $675 (train, check; home depot, check), without heat or phone. But we really had to squeeze to make that happen. I’d say most people are paying about $1000 for an apartment for two people– but its a bigger nicer closer-to-the-action apt than what we have.

  3. Andrea says:

    Hey Jill,
    Your guide to Montreal appartments cracked me up! I will need to print it out and keep it! Happily I have found myself a renovated stables in someone’s back yard to live in, which is very plesant and the dep around the corner does not sell cement.
    Yes, I am not kidding, my house was a stables about 80 years ago. So sweet.

  4. Jill says:

    Wow, that sounds cool. I’m going to resist making any cracks about horses, because it sounds seriously awesome. Photos?

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